One restaurant shakes off recession

It’s always interesting to watch the migration of businesses around the East End. Some switch from the North Fork to the South for various reasons. Some do the reverse. And some go biforkal.

One that made a move from South to North is The Clearing House eXchange, the big consignment shop that came up from Southampton three years ago. Co-owner Victoria Collett told me the other day that the move was based on a desire to expand, but also on the differing attitudes North and South. “There’s a perception of the Hamptons that you overpay for what you buy,” she said. “That’s not the case in our store, but there isn’t that perception on the North Fork.”

The move has been a success, according to Collett. The store’s fans have had no trouble adjusting to the new site, many regulars devotedly making the trip up from the Hamptons.

Meanwhile, Love Lane Kitchen is poised to go biforkal. In its three short years, the Mattituck restaurant has become a central part of the North Fork scene. Based on its success, it’s now adding a second location at Poxabogue Golf Course in Wainscott.

“We’ve found a niche,” owner Mike Avella told me. “High-quality casual food with good value at reasonable prices, with a focus on local produce all prepared fresh.”

Reviewers tend to apply descriptions like “cute,” “quaint,” “adorable” and “like you’ve stepped onto the set of a ’50s TV show.” But the wording gets more serious on the subject of the food, which includes all kinds of interesting creations, from a Kobe beef hot dog to duck tagine, served in a domed Moroccan cooking vessel. They even do their own coffee roasting.

There’s an easy way to tell if the Kitchen is for real: Just cook up a Great Recession and then check its receipts. “Whether we’re just hitting our stride or for whatever reason, we’re up a lot this year – 24 percent,” Avella said. Even he considers it “unexpected” in the midst of “a tough year” that’s seen other restaurants closing.

One of those getting out is Dan Murray of Danny’s Poxabogue Café, a breakfast/lunch institution at the golf course. After encountering some lease disputes with the landlords (Southampton and East Hampton towns), he’s moving on and Love Lane Kitchen is moving in. Avella’s thinking went as follows: “The opportunity came along; we’ve got a concept that’s worked – we’ll do it.”

The rent is double what he’s paying in Mattituck (“at the upper limit of what I think is reasonable”), but for that he gets a slightly bigger space (35 tables inside and about as many out) and that “terrific location” right on Montauk Highway.

He thinks the Kitchen’s niche is underserved on the South Fork, and so is hopeful for another warm response. After doing some renovations, including a new kitchen, he hopes to be cooking by April.

Avella worked as a self-described computer geek on Wall Street for nearly 20 years before moving on, going to culinary school and working in a series of restaurants all over the country. Then a friend told him that Connie’s Bake Shop & Cafe on Love Lane was closing. “It seemed like a nice fit,” Avella said. “And not a lot of money at the time.”

Three years later he’s in love with Love Lane and what it’s brought him. He tells his staff they’re not in the restaurant business but the hospitality business, and to “welcome customers like they would in their own home.” He sends staffers to conventions around the country to “bring back ideas and enthusiasm.” Said Avella, “It seems to have been successful. I’ve got such a terrific staff, and some have been here almost since we opened.”

He’s done the math and expects operating two restaurants on two forks will be double the work and maybe more, but that’s no deterrent. “I never worked this hard on Wall Street,” he said. Also, “I never expected to get rich here, and so far it’s bearing out.”

But “I love my restaurant,” he said. “I love my staff and my customers. I love getting to know my neighbors.”

Evidently the place is aptly named.


Long Island Business News / January 6, 2010